CyberRear SP 2B+ From 116g

Light, clean and clever CyberRear SP 2B+ features the widest possible spoke camber to offer higher lateral stiffness Like CyberRear SPD 3+ spoke holes holes are now 3D angled to allow a perfect alignment of spokes

Straight pull spokes increase wheel stiffness under sprinting, reduce lateral flex and increase both braking and accelerating torque transmission The smart securing B-Lock system does not require Quick Release, for a further weight saving Stilish Tensioner bolt for the A and C Line gives a light and nice touch

4-bearing design for long lasting performance. Bearing dimensions are one step beefier than most and much heavier competitors Equipped with ABEC5 cartridge bearings featuring Grade 5 Chromium Steel Balls, 52100 Hi-Carbon Chromium Alloy Races, Nylon-Graphite Ball Retainers. Fully serviceable. New oversized titanium ratchet wheel with a precise 32T pawl engaging system.

No need to open the hub for spoke replacement or wheel assembling Micro-tuner: our easy and quick external bearing preload system that ensures precise tuning, smooth running and no play at the rim.

The first Brompton hub compatible with all setups: A,C,P and T-Line Titanium Bolts heads gives a clean look without hurting you when bike is folded and carried

Hi-tech rarely combines with maintenance easiness, not here!

As with all Extralite products CyberHubs exceed UNI/DIN Safety standards.

Configure

Brompton specific rear hub, compatible with A-C-P and T-Line, 20 or 24h straight pull spokes.
Optimized spoke camber, Ø 2.8mm spoke holes 3D angled and rounded for perfect spoke-to-rim alignment.
Compatible cogs: up to 6 speed cogs (individual cogs) up to 7 speed cogs (one-piece construction).
Oversized axle Ø17mm (112mm width), ABEC5 cartridge bearings (high load capacity) with external preload tuner.
Hub is supplied with special Titanium bolts for an extremely lightweiht wheel securing (B-Lock system).
Oversized and sealed freewheel mech, OR-spring, Titanium 32T ratchet wheel.
Black anodized hub-body with laser etched graphics.

Weight: 116g for 20h HyC Bearings (B-Lock special securing system 7.8g - Tensioner bolt 3.8g)

…More Tech Details

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Description
Hub Dimensions
Wheel building
Spoke-end Diameter
Tech Tips
Manuals
Spare Parts

Tech info

Description

Hub Dimensions

Wheel building

CyberFront SP-B / CyberRear SP 2B+ wheel-building

Here you find all the necessary instructions to realize your dream wheels with pre-calculated spoke lengths

Follow instructions step by step:

1)Measure your "spoke-end diameter" (not ERD)

2)Find front hub spoke length on table A

3)Find your rear spoke length (left side) on table B

4)Find your rear spoke length and lacing pattern (drive side) on table C

(All measures are expressed in mm)

4)Lace the wheel respecting correct lacing pattern (see below)

Maximum spoke tension:- Refer to spcific manuals

Warning: spoke lacing and tensioning require skills and experience,refer to an expert professional wheel builder for these operations

1) "Spoke-End-Diameter"

Rim manufacturers always offer ERD figures however we warmly recommend to precisely measure the rim+nipple combination

Basically a correct spoke calculation requires exact "spoke-end diameter" and rim drilling

Spoke-end diameter depends on your rim internal diameter and nipple type

2) CyberFront SP-B

Radial lacing - Straight pull spokes (any drilling count)

Spoke-end Diameter	Spoke Length
310	143
315	146
320	148
325	151
330	153
335	156
340	158
345	161
350	163

Table A

Note: We list "spoke-end diameters" every 5mm step. If your "spoke-end diameter" measure is in between 2 steps adjust your spoke length consequently

3) CyberRear SP 2B+

Left side- Straight pull spokes

Spoke-end Diameter	Spoke Length 24H Crossed Lacing	Spoke Length 20H Crossed Lacing	Spoke Length 28H Radial Lacing
310	154	159	143
315	157	161	146
320	159	164	148
325	162	166	150
330	164	168	153
335	167	171	156
340	169	173	158
345	172	176	160
350	174	178	163

Table B

4)CyberRear SP 2B+

Drive side - Straight pull spokes

Spoke-end Diameter	Spoke Length 24H	Spoke Length 20H and 28H
310	152	159
315	154	161
320	157	164
325	159	166
330	161	168
335	164	171
340	166	173
345	169	176
350	171	178

Table C

Lacing: correct lacing patterns with straiht-pull spokes must be as shown below

Spoke-end Diameter

How to measure "Spoke-End-Diameter"

Spoke-end diameter depends on your rim and nipple type and length.

Below you see how to measure SED for both nipple types:
External nipple configuration
Internal nipple configuration

Take measures very precisely because a well correct nipple/spoke assembly accepts a spoke-length tolerance of +/-1mm only.
(All measures are expressed in mm)

External nipple configuration

1) Insert two J-spokes (random size) with the nipples (of your final build) into 2 opposite rim holes.

This simple trick helps to keep spokes aligned and slightly tensioned.

2) Precisely measure distance between nipples.

Be careful to take measure between the 2 nipple-ends.

3) Add 2x by the nipple height (of your final build) to the measure above.
This gives "Spoke-End-Diameter".
Note: with slotted nipples measure height inside the cut.

cutted nipple

Internal nipple configuration

You can get the necessary data following the procedure below:
1) Precisely measure outer rim diameter (A).

2) Insert a nipple of your final build into a hole (use a spoke to hold nipple in position).
3) Precisely measure distance between nipple-top and outer rim diameter (B).

This is the correct caliper positioning inside the rim (don't cut your rim!)

4) A-2B = "Spoke-End-Diameter".

Tech Tips

CyberRear / Type of Use and Rider Weight
The whole hub lineup named "Cyber" is specifically designed for Road use.
We do not limit rider weight since the structure of all our hubs is very well dimensioned.

However make sure your shortest gear ratio is in the "Road" range, that means not shorter than 1:1.
In case you need shorter gear ratio we recommend to use "Hyper" hub lineup that's specifically designed for MTB use where the gear ratio can be twice more short.
Additionally the whole "Hyper" lineup comes standard equipped with ABI 440c stainless bearings and additional external seals in order to withstand to the adverse environment of MTB riding.

Hub-Servicing / general
We warmly recommend to read well the instruction manuals and execute a cleaning-servicing by yourself.

If you need to replace bearings you get good guidelines on our Tech Tips area

In case you'll need a really full servicing you can send hub/wheel to us for a proper service.
(remind to ask for shipping instructions and authorization code)

As general rule we can't recommend bicycle mechanics for the servicing of Extralite hubs unless they are truly ready to follow our manuals very strictly.
That because our hubs work on rather different principles than the common brand/models on the market.

Regularly service your Hyper hub strictly following its instruction manual step by step (don't skip any step).
Again: never wrench or service Extralite hubs by instinct or only by past experience!

Micro-Tuner
All our hubs feature a device "micro-tuner" that offers a very precise setting of bearing preload.
Remind to execute the "micro-tuner" tuning after your wheel has been laced, see how on hub manual at the Bearing-Preload chapter.

Basic diagnosis
When the micro-tuner is correctly set you should not feel lateral movements at all.
- Axial play (lateral movement left-right of axle) will also produce play at the rim.
- Radial play (when you have up-down movement at the hub) means the outer part is wider than the inner part: worn our bearing or axle etc.
In all cases the freehub should not have any noticeable radial play.
If you have a noticeable radial play at the freehub check it well, probably a bearing is gone or so blocked that has worn-out the axle.

Hub-noises / general
In over a decade we never found a single hub capable of making noise by itself (unless with a completely blown bearing or freehub).
Once the hub has been properly serviced and micro-tuner position adjusted (see "bearing-preload" procedure on manual) I would recommend to investigate well on the hub peripherals.
That's to say:
- Spokes (that should not touch each other)
- Frame dropout (where even a small 0.2mm play of the axle can produce an annoying noise)
- Cog assembly (that doesn't need grease nor more than 25Nm torquing to stay properly in position).
- Remind that the cause of the noise is generally never where you suppose.
Keep the above well in mind and you'll be able to sort it out with some dedication.

Opening "Rear Axle-Ends" on Thru-axle models
Use only two 17mm closed wrenches.